“Beer is living proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy…”
So said Benjamin Franklin…supposedly. Not really true!
Histories and religions never develop in isolation (in my humble opinion). Whether the former affects the latter more or viceversa is certainly a matter opinion. Beer history is no different. As long as there has been beer, there has been some deity or saint so associated. In the days, months, and years to come at THFB, we intend from time on discussing the various intertwining of the draught and the divine. While posts of this nature will not be linear by any means, there is no better place to kick things off than at the beginning.
Some 10,000 to 15,000 years ago nomadic humans began settling down as they discovered the joys consistencies of agrarian living. Most likely there first crops were grains. The earliest known records of intentional beer brewing are found amongst the Ancient Sumerians. Originally this happened by chance…maybe one of these primitive farmers left a wet piece of bread out, it fermented, and was eaten and accompanied by a desirable side effect. Beer was discovered.
Imagine what that ancient man thought, supposing it were a piece of fermented bread. He grew the grain, combined the ingredients, and baked the bread. The bread got wet. It fermented. He ate it. His head swam. He saw his dead grandfather. Instead of seeing the process as fermentation, he saw it as: bread+water+time=INEBRIATION!!!
The god (in this case goddess) to whom the work of fermentation later was credited is Ninkasi. Ninkasi, who was born of pure water, was the goddess of beer. She was said to “satisfy one’s desire and sate one’s heart.” A hymn to Ninkasi, found on ancient seal (1800 BC) not only pays homage to the giver of the divine brew, but gives an ancient beer recipe. In 1989 the Anchor Brewing Company, after much scholarly research, reduplicated the recipe and produced a beer named after the goddess. Anchor’s website describes the process in fascinating detail, I would suggest checking it out. Apparently the recipe is available in Charlie Papazian’s, “The Complete Joy of Home Brewing,” for any homebrewers adventurous enough to attempt “baking” their beer.
While I doubt any readers of this blog believe in Ninkasi’s existence enough to thank her, I hope at some point in the future as you revel in the joy a beer affords you )as expressed by Franklin), you’ll think of the ancient Summerian’s and the delectable legacy they left for us. So without further ado, The Hymn to Ninkasi:
Hymn to Ninkasi
Borne of the flowing water,
Tenderly cared for by the Ninhursag,
Borne of the flowing water,
Tenderly cared for by the Ninhursag,Having founded your town by the sacred lake,
She finished its great walls for you,
Ninkasi, having founded your town by the sacred lake,
She finished it’s walls for you,Your father is Enki, Lord Nidimmud,
Your mother is Ninti, the queen of the sacred lake.
Ninkasi, your father is Enki, Lord Nidimmud,
Your mother is Ninti, the queen of the sacred lake.You are the one who handles the dough [and] with a big shovel,
Mixing in a pit, the bappir with sweet aromatics,
Ninkasi, you are the one who handles the dough [and] with a big shovel,
Mixing in a pit, the bappir with [date] – honey,You are the one who bakes the bappir in the big oven,
Puts in order the piles of hulled grains,
Ninkasi, you are the one who bakes the bappir in the big oven,
Puts in order the piles of hulled grains,You are the one who waters the malt set on the ground,
The noble dogs keep away even the potentates,
Ninkasi, you are the one who waters the malt set on the ground,
The noble dogs keep away even the potentates,You are the one who soaks the malt in a jar,
The waves rise, the waves fall.
Ninkasi, you are the one who soaks the malt in a jar,
The waves rise, the waves fall.You are the one who spreads the cooked mash on large reed mats,
Coolness overcomes,
Ninkasi, you are the one who spreads the cooked mash on large reed mats,
Coolness overcomes,You are the one who holds with both hands the great sweet wort,
Brewing [it] with honey [and] wine
(You the sweet wort to the vessel)
Ninkasi, (…)(You the sweet wort to the vessel)The filtering vat, which makes a pleasant sound,
You place appropriately on a large collector vat.
Ninkasi, the filtering vat, which makes a pleasant sound,
You place appropriately on a large collector vat.When you pour out the filtered beer of the collector vat,
It is [like] the onrush of Tigris and Euphrates.
Ninkasi, you are the one who pours out the filtered beer of the collector vat,
It is [like] the onrush of Tigris and Euphrates.
One thing that is notable about this hymn is that it roughly describles the order of the brew that occurs. It’s almost a hymn and homebrew for dummies.
[Reply]
Elspeth Payne Reply:
May 14th, 2012 at 10:13 am
There’s a line of thinking that says it’s the world’s oldest known beer recipe: https://www.elspethpayne.com/2012/02/28/beer-for-ninkasi/
[Reply]
Yeah, I noticed that. I would love to recreate it. Although my gut reaction is it would be a confrontational flavor…no hops or anything to bitter the beer. probably bready and sweet.
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Cool site Nate.
Saw your post when you hit my site and I was intrigued.
A site about Beer…very nice. Love the brew but unfortunately have never learned the art of homebrew.
Will definitely be visiting often to see what you are writing about.
[Reply]
Joseph,
We probably won’t be doing too much on homebrewing. Well, if there is a high demand…we’ll see. I’ve myself have been doing it for about five years or so (I know that Nate would love to get into it). If you are interested, maybe I can post something before too long. Nate said this ancient text would not produce what we are used to, but it would make a good beer either way. I imagine that some may have let this ancient beer sour to produce bittering. Sure it would be a confrontational flavor, but that is based on conventional flavors.
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One more thing about the picture with the post. Notice the long straw. This was probably meant to filter out the extraneous particles.
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@Joseph…thanks for swinging by man, I’ll definitely swing by your site again! I hope one of these Fridays you’ll pick up the beer of the week and enjoy a brew (virtually) with us!
@Mike…Yeah, somewhere (I can’t remember where) I read a prof. of archeology explain the pic in detail. I think she was from Texas A&M.
[Reply]
I like it! I wrote a similarly themed post. I love brewing history, it’s nice to see a like minded soul out there: https://www.elspethpayne.com/2012/02/28/beer-for-ninkasi/
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