As a disclaimer from the start, I want to categorically state that I did not use this yeast for fermentation.  This yeast was used at bottling and for the conditioning of my Saison.  So, if you are looking for performance of this yeast strain of normal fermentation cycles, then perhaps this will not be that useful to you.  If you want a review of a Saison yeast strain refer to my review of White Labs 568.  However, bottle conditioning is an important part of the process for a Saison, so I thought I would spell out the end result of the this particular yeast's performance in the bottle. As stated in my review of 568, the final attenuation of the strain went to the 1.018-1.020 mark.  Perhaps this isn't quite as dry as a typical Saison, but I also had 10% ABV, which certainly isn't typical.  That being said, some residual sweetness was desirable for two reasons.  One, balancing out the ABV is necessary in a 10%ABV Saison, so a touch of sweetness accomplishes that goal.  Second, a touch of sugar with a fresh yeast addition creates the bright carbonation necessary for authenticity in the style.  The carbonation also aids in ...

This is for you, Scott from Manland.  It wasn't more than a year or so ago that I started having quite a bit of interaction with my (now friend) Scott.  He would write me, talk about beer, and ask some advice.  He was kicking around the idea of homebrewing, which I knew would keep getting him into more and more beer.  I have literally watch him blossom in beer knowledge and enthusiasm.  Knowing that I was a part of that makes me really happy. Think about it: our blog of humble beginnings has had influence over a few people.  In an age of mass media, mass production, really mass culture, personal discussions and friendships of mutual respect via the blog world have helped us to influence, teach, and shape each others outlooks.  So, it is with thanks to all of you, our readers and friends, that I say I'm glad to have you hear and see pictures like this: Scott's first brew.  Where's yours?

It's been a while since we've revisited the topic of how to mash brew, so I thought it was high time to complete the task.  I know that some of you are on the edge of your seats.  Now that you know how to perform various mashing methods, it's time to get all those sugars for which you worked so hard.  Sparging: what is it? Well, during the process of starch to sugar conversion, water penetrates the grain.  That water converts the starches into sugar while also increasing the viscosity.  Problem is that you want those sugars for a complete wort and beer.  But you want to be careful because too high of temperatures don't simply extract entrenched sugar, they pull out the tannins/huskiness/astringency of the grain husks.  With few exceptions, 168-170ºF is about as hot that your sparging water should be. There are various levels and ways of sparging that can be done.  For instance, barley-wines can often have little or no sparging at all.  Normally, however, brewers tend to run their sparged sugars to about 2º on the Plato scale.  Obviously, style dependence and objectives for the beer play a role.  I often reach my target volumes before the aforementioned Plato ...

Here's a picture of me mashing my decoction (note the two pots).  There are certain types of beer that are very conducive to the various mashing regiments.  I've mentioned in previous posts which types of beers tend to fit into which categories.  We've covered single infusion and step-mashing to this point, but what about decoction mashing? The word decoction refers to reducing/concentrating/boiling down a solution.  It also refers to extracting the essence of something.  In the context of beer, it refers to boiling the thickest part of the mash, which, in turn, allows further water penetration and starch conversion.  Also, various elements that are essential to stylistic flavor profiles are produced. Decoction mashing is the traditional method for beers like Doppelbock, Lambic, and several styles that can also be step mashed.  Some of the benefits of decoction mashing are debated among beer geeks, but it does offer a pretty thorough conversion of starches to sugars and adds some tannin qualities, which are desirable for some styles.  In addition, Melanoidin (formed from Amino acids and sugars), which is accomplished through the so-called Mailard reaction, is said to happen during the boiling portions of the decoction.  This yields some of the deeper flavors of ...

Recently, I've been re-reading my Zymurgy journals, and it's been great.  I've reveling in the fact that there is always something to learn or remember.  A simple example of this is related to the double bock I'm planning to brew.  A double bock is the very first all-grain recipe I brewed.  It turned out well, but I used some malts then that I wouldn't use now.  I didn't boil quite long enough, I didn't use Noble hops, I started my fermentation at room temp and cooled.  About two years later, it's become evident that my process has changed quite a bit and that I'm still learning about some aspects of brewing. The fact that my first double bock turned out well, despite some flaws in the process, is evidence that I brewed (on a fundamental level) well the first time.  It also points out that I've not stopped learning.  I think that's the thing I love about brewing; there is always something new to learn, do, and change up.  For the record, I'm still planning on some unique signatures on the brew, but I know that changing a recipe means being able to do it well in the first place.  I've decided to brew some ...

A thought occurred to me lately: one of my doctors knows that I homebrew and essentially hinted that he would love to try some.  I know that he likes decent beer and really is an appreciator of wine.  For that reason, I took him a homebrew. Loving to share my brews is truly one of the reasons that I brew the beer.  Of course, it doesn't hurt to get a buzz going ahead of opening a brewery in a few years.  But honestly, the joy of sharing beer and seeing appreciation for it is why I do it. So back to the thought...  The thought/encouragement that I have for the homebrewers out there is to pick your spots.  I'm sure many of you can testify to the reality that not everyone appreciates a good homebrew.  Why?  Because those same people don't generally appreciate good beer.  I've shared my homebrews with many people on many occasions.  It's notable how many people come out of the woodwork when they find out free beer is involved.  Oftentimes, it's the macro drinkers who are the first to ask.  I like to tell myself they are asking out of an deep-seated and unconscious desire for good beer, ...

I'm not sure how many of you make starters for your beers, especially the bigger ones, but I do.  Some of you have been brewing for some time and others are just starting out, so you might be looking for how to make a starter, so here's a post about how and why to make one.  For now, I just want to find a way to save you some cash when you start making a starter.  There are several cool ways to reduce the cost of brewing equipment, including using more common stuff for homebrewing rather than assuming you have to buy specialized equipment. Here's what I mean.  I bought my one gallon fermenter at a brew shop.  The going rate for the one gallon fermenter is about $5.  It's not a huge expense, but it is one.  Do you cook much?  Do you cook with wine much?  Or do you know someone who does?  Here's what I figured out.  I shopped at Smart and Final and was able to purchase a 4 liter jug o' wine for about $7.50-8.00 (and I used a coupon to get an additional dollar off).  Not a bad price for some halfway decent cooking wine. ...

For some reason, I thought we'd already written a post on this very topic, but to my surprise, I couldn't find it. So, I've decided to write down a very brief tutorial on the subject of making a yeast starter—or at least how I do it. For those of us who brew, we've often seen yeast packs or recipes that recommend making a yeast starter for beers that are over 1.070 degrees gravity (i.e., the beer has the potential to reach the ABV level of roughly 9.2%, assuming full fermentation).  The reasons behind this are many.  For one, a higher gravity creates a more hostile environment for lower levels of yeast.  Secondly, the small level of yeast simply can't uptake sugar and multiply fast enough to keep up with levels.  They can literally explode.  Furthermore, higher sugars mean higher viscosity, which means lower oxygen uptake.  Because of this, the smaller amount of yeast has more trouble feeding off the lower levels of dissolved oxygen.  Additionally, as the ABV levels rise, the yeast is in an even more hostile environment.  For all these reasons (and more), you'll see that starters are advisable for higher gravity beers. Think of it this way: say you ...

The possibilities are virtually limitless when you brew beer.  There are just so many approaches, styles, and types to choose from that it can be bewildering.  Actually, it can be simultaneously freeing as well.  You don't have to make a beer in a vacuum, and there is a lot of room for movement within a style.  One consequence of the variety is the resulting subtle range of unique beers, which is why I can't understand a craft brew who simply makes unimaginative beers.  But that's another issue all together. What got me thinking about this?  Well, I'm just now brewing my first lambic. Already this an interesting style, but there are various roads I had to choose in order to make the lambic mine.  For instance, what was my grain bill going to include?  What percentage wheat should I use?  Was I going to add a small portion of one more grains to put a slight spin on the whole?  These were questions I had to ask myself before I even got into the brewing process. Hops.  What about those?  How do I get stale hops, which are important for the style?  Is there an artificial way to do this?  What type ...

When I first moved near L.A., I had a lot of trouble finding a homebrew supply place.  I thought I was going to have to drive hours and hours to get ingredients.  I'm all for supporting my local marketplace, yet I was contemplating getting grains shipped for convenience and price. Then I found Culver City Homebrew.  I have to say that I'm glad I didn't get my stuff from a faraway impersonal company. That's the thing about homebrew supplies.  There are various sources from which they can be purchased, but there's no one with whom to speak.  Brewing advice or just shooting the shit are some of the most rewarding aspects of shopping for homebrew supplies locally. There is room to bounce ideas off one another and to help the more fledgling homebrew neophytes.  I actually had the privilege of offering some sound advice to a guy who was doing an extract brew.  I suggested some German Chocolate Wheat malt to help with head retention and get more of the chocolate tones (and less coffee) that he was looking for.  I also advised him to be careful with the vanilla beans he was putting in bourbon, reminding him that the higher ...