Saint Arnold is one of the official Patron Saints of brewing. Isn’t it interesting that some branches of the Church embrace this aspect of human innovation and others degrade the very notion? I think it is. Of course, Saint Arnold Brewery has picked up on this aspect of Catholic dogma, naming their operation after the Roman Catholic Saint. They come in with 15 years of existence, hardly a glimmer in the stream of things, but maybe a substantial amount of time in the recent influx of craft breweries.
But it seems that they want more than their brewery to last. They have a recycling program that lures the drinker to bring recyclable brewing material for brewery swag. This is a most ingratiating state of affairs in the context of an increasingly ecologically minded public. At any rate, it seems that they want to be here to stay as a brewery and as a planet. But this Houston based brewery may have to admit to mission control that they might have a problem.
In my mind, their brews are singularly indistinct. I’m not in the business of bashing breweries, especially of the craft variety. First off, I need to thank my brother-in-law for picking up nine varieties of their beer on which my assessment is based. Fortunately, there are a few more bright spots in their line-up that help me to be able to think better of them. However, my experience of their brews was of the more negative orientation. So, don’t expect my hearty approval of their products. I will add that there are some things that are worth a try.
As I said, I drank through nine of their beers, which gives me a good canvas on which to paint what I think is an accurate portrait of Saint Arnold. Here are the beers that I tried, which will be from “weakest” to “strongest”:
Texas Wheat, Summer Pilsner, and Lawnmower Kolsch style all measured in at 4.9% ABV. All of these fall below the “typical” 5% ABV associated with the semi-standard level of the macro fiends. But what about the taste? Well, the Texas Wheat was a typical American Wheat that could maybe not be counted among the ranks of, say, a Boulevard Wheat, Pyramid Haywire, or one of the other ubiquitous and vapid version that are so predominate. But for what it’s worth, I would take even a Widmer’s Wheat over the Saint Arnold variety. It is increasingly true that some of these craft brews are simply lost in the ranks of the sheer number of other brews of this type. For my part, I prefer a German Wheat beer for it’s clove or banana and ability to refresh. Even so, this wheat is entirely forgetable and not nearly as good as even the most common varieties.
As far as the Kolsch goes, I’d say the same. Schlafly or numerous other kolsch styles beers are a much better choice that Saint Arnold’s variety. I won’t even delve into the German, Austrian, or whatever other world of kolsch beers.
Saint Arnold’s Summer Pilsner held a little more promise. It is refreshing but lacks a good hops bitterness and slight graininess that would be more appropriate for the style. Some more hops and a little more grain would have gone a long way to make this beer, which was too thin, a very nice pilsner style beer. So, for the 4.9% beers, I couldn’t give a hearty recommendation (or a mild one, for that matter).
Moving onward, I’m afraid that there might not be a lot of hope for a couple other beers. The Brown Ale, which was a 5.3 percent offering, kept within the style guidelines but could have used a little more caramel punch and a touch more bitterness. Again, I can only say that it’s somewhat indistinct and is easily lost among much better varieties.
I won’t say too much here but their Oktoberfest was, by far, the most deplorable beer that they had to offer. It is the worst Oktoberfest that I’ve had. I think it was too thin, not an insurmountable obstacle. The worst aspect of it was a marked diacetyl quality that I couldn’t get past (sort of bad nutty). This was the one and only beer of theirs that I, literally, poured down the sink. A sink worthy beer, indeed.
Next, I had their Spring Bock. This one wasn’t too bad. Perhaps it was a little bit light-bodied for a bock. Is that the message behind calling it a Spring Bock? Who knows? What I do know is that it was much better than their Oktoberfest. It weighs in at 6.4% ABV.
Elissa IPA, named after a ship, was one of the brighter spots in the Saint Arnold line-up. On their site they talk up this beer as being hoppy in character, dry hopped, etc. Actually, I found it to be fairly restrained compared to many of its American counterparts. In fact, it seemed far more British in character…a fact which normally makes me very happy. This was a genuinely good beer that I’d drink on a regular basis. One of the downfalls to the brew was that the dry hopping, or lack of extra filtration, left some hops in the bottom of the bottle. It reminded me very much of home-brew in that sense.
What would Christmas be without trying their Christmas Ale? As many of you know, it’s almost aphoristic for a Christmas beer to be spiced in one way or another. It seems, however, that Saint Arnold avoided the temptation to spice it up. Kudos on that front. The beer itself was the third best among their line-up. I did enjoy the residual sweetness, hops spiciness, and full body. I can say that this one is worth picking up.
Last, but not least, is their Divine 9 Reserve. At 11% ABV this is certainly the biggest beer that I had from Saint Arnold. In fact, it’s 1% higher than anything they’ve brewed to date. The real oddity was that the Christmas beer was not spiced while this one had a big spiced character. I’m generally not a fan of spiced or pumpkin ales, so you can see that when I found out it was a Pumpkin Imperial Stout, I was not too enthusiastic. Most of the time, these pumpkin beers end up being vegetable toned and over-spiced. Yet, I can say without guile or exaggeration that this beer is genuinely good. I enjoyed drinking several of these ales in a few day period. The nose and taste are mix between ginger snap cookies, pumpkin pie, and banana bread. The vanilla qualities are a nice addition to a beer that really comes together well. Divine 9 is sweet and has a slight alcohol boozy bite, which is quite enjoyable. I’m bringing two bottles home to age for a couple of years. I expect the spice to recede and the flavors to keep melding.
Overall, I think the brewery is much better at bigger stuff. I don’t know if that has to do with the ability to hide some flaws that are not so easily hidden in smaller beers. Of course, the Pilsner was clean, so far as it goes. The real issue appears to be some aspects of recipe design (see Summer Pils above).
I have no doubt that Saint Arnold’s Divine series will continue to get better. However, I’m reluctant to recommend much of their line-up to beer lovers. Furthermore, there are much better beers for those bridging out into the craft world. As an aside, my father-in-law, a recent entrant into the craft brew fray, didn’t enjoy several of the brews. He is already become more discriminating about which craft brews are markedly better than others. Saint Arnold does not stand out in this respect. Go big or go somewhere else if you want to buy some of their beers.
I am wondering if you tried all these seasonals at the same time from a single shipment from your brother. If so, you were drinking some seasonals that were not fresh — and the beers that were furthest from their release date. For instance, the Spring Bock is released in February, so if this tasting was just done recently, you were drinking a nearly year-old beer. Depending on how it was stored/shipped, it may have degraded somewhat. Same is the case with the Summer Pils (GABF Gold winner last year BTW), which was released in April. Disclosure: I help Saint Arnold with PR.
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Understood. I knew that some of those were a little older. They were refrigerated the whole time and at his house in Houston. In my opinion, the Bock of 6.4% should not be overly degraded in that length of time. And my criticism would remain the same. Not bad but too light bodied. As far as the Pils goes, part of the sub-text is what I’ve already written on Pilsners. Historically speaking, they are more bitter, hoppy, and grainy than many American versions. That is part of why I wasn’t too impressed with that particular beer. Of course, preference plays a role there. But it’s not simply my own preference, it’s one of history. As I said, I wouldn’t give it a hearty recommendation but it held promise.
As far as GABF goes, I don’t always agree with their assessments. Does anybody? For instance, Rogue won a ton of stuff this year but I think they tend to be too bitter in their approach. Would I give them the gold? No! Did some judges? Yes! Point is, that GABF doesn’t make it so for me (and many others out there). I can’t help but reiterate that I thought the Pils was okay. The only one I really thought was horrible was that Oktoberfest.
I try to be balanced in my approach to breweries because I hate sounding like I’m bashing craft brewers. In fact, I structured my article so as to leave the reader with a positive last impression. My article breaks down like this:
1-Horrible beer 3-Average beers 2-Pretty decent beers 3-Beers that are Worth getting. I don’t feel I was unfair. I also understand your position from the PR perspective. I am willing to try any of your line-up again. Personally, I do look forward to Divine 10. If I get a chance to try the Pils or Bock nearer to their dates, then I will make an effort to do so. Who knows? You may be right and I may change my opinion. If so, I will certainly revise what I’ve written. I’m more than willing to taste some fresh versions if you want to send them my way.
I do like your bigger stuff, so I’ve not discounted you guys entirely. I hope there are no bad feelings…that’s the last thing I want.
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To be clear, I am not suggesting a revision is needed. Everyone is welcome to have an opinion. On Beer Advocate, the reviews of Saint Arnold Oktoberfest range from a low of 1.95 to a high of 4.55 — so opinions are all over the place on that beer in particular.
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I’m not assuming that you did. I’m only saying that if the problem with the tasting lies where you suggested (ie it was old), then I would revise what I said if I got a better result from those that were fresh. Opinions are all over the place on a lot of beers and I often disagree with BA. However, I did taste something that is typically considered an off flavor for a lager (we’re talking stylistic guidelines). There was more that I had a problem with but that was my major issue.
I can certainly understand the subjective side of rating beer. However, I’ve often said that I don’t like a beer…but I do tell people that it is well made and that I just don’t care for the style (or whatever the case may be). I’ve also said that I simply think a beer is not good according to style or taste. The Oktoberfest fell into this category. Let’s not forget that fact that I liked a few of your beers as well. You are not pushing subjectivity on that account. Point being that, for my part, I believe I have a perceptive palate that is capable of distinguish a good beer from a bad. I also believe that I used that same tongue to applaud some of your beers as well as cast doubt on others.
Thanks for taking the time to visit our site and at least offer some counter-dialogue on the topic of your beers. It’s my personal hope that some of your beers will be the gateway for people to get into craft brewing and stop drinking macro junk. You are welcome to state your opinion anytime. It’s obvious that you really care about your product.
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Execellent review; Sam Adams or Saint Arnold – pass a Sam. Got a good German bier?
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I agree with the sentiment. For the most part, I would drink Sam’s Lagers. There is room to make the Pilsner awesome for Saint Arnold. I would drink 4 or 5 of the Saint Arnold’s on a regular basis. They’ve got some good stuff and could afford to rework some, too.
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[...] In a recent review, Mike objectively reviewed a line of beers, walking a tight line between truthful… Here at Thank Heaven for Beer we revere those who create our favorite beverage and never desire to insult a brewer while reviewing their product. In his review of St. Arnold Brewery, while he found some of their beers refreshing, Mike honestly stated that one beer in particular, the Oktoberfest, was a sink worthy beer and stated why he rendered such judgment. The breweries PR/Marketing guy responded with a sublte air of offense. I was a little surprised. [...]
Got here from Nate’s “Everyone’s A Critic” blog.
I was lucky enough to get a 6pack of the Divine Reserve and was largely impressed by it. As someone who believes in supporting your local breweries as much as possible, I always make sure to keep some St. Arnold, Real Ale, Southern Star, and Rahr on hand but have found most TX breweries tend to make a pretty middle of the road beer. Too much BMC around these parts…
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The Southern Star Pine Belt Pale I had was pretty decent. I didn’t get to try too much outside the Saint Arnold stuff. I think we ought to support local stuff that’s around us too, which is really easy here in CA.
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What are your thoughts on TX Blonde Ales if you got to try? Southern Star’s Bombshell Blonde is one of my favorite session beers and mixes PERFECTLY with practically anything.
I envy you being in CA.
From now on I will no longer be the Juiceman.. Just Jglass
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I didn’t get to drink any Blondes when I was there. I’d love to try some more of Southern Star stuff. I will next time I visit Andrea’s bro in Tex.
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I’ve got to send some beers to a friend who hooked me up with a Double Dead Guy (he got a case for $40 from their “garage sale”).. I’d be down to send out some Southern Star or something for you if you’d like.
thetestisover_@t_gm@il_dot_com
remove all the silly stuff of course
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Double Dead Guy. I like it much more than the normal Dead Guy. Rogue is hit and miss for me but I do like a few of their brews. I’d love to try some of the Southern Star stuff. Just let me know what you have in mind. I shoot you an email for too long.
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I’d agree. Normal Dead Guy is wayyy overrated…
I could send you a can of Bombshell Blonde and their newest offering, Buried Hatchet Stout. The Stout is a breakfast/desert beer hahaha… it’s really creamy and chocolatey– but not PURE chocolate. Great beer. Rahr has a couple quality offerings as well… they’re my “local” brewery.
We could do a trade if you wanted to send back a cali brew or two… pretty much any non-major (micro-)brewery out there I’d be interested in (stouts and IPAs generally).
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beer_scientist Reply:
February 9th, 2010 at 5:05 pm
Sounds good. Shoot me an email on the contact page telling me if there’s a certain beer like Pliny the Elder that I can send you. I’d love to try some stuff. I’ll leave it to your discretion as to what you think is good to send.
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